Serves: 4 | Time: 30 min active, plus 24–48 hrs desalting in advance
Pasta con Baccalà e Finocchio is a venerable dish from Roman-Jewish cuisine. Salting transforms the fish. Even after desalting, the cod fish retains a firm, distinctive texture and a concentrated savory flavor. One would say a fortified version of itself.
Ingredients
Poaching Stock
- Enough water to cover the fish
- 1 celery stick, roughly chopped
- 1 small carrot, roughly chopped
- 1 small onion, roughly chopped
- Fennel top trimmings
- Parsley stalks
- 5 black peppercorns
Pasta
- 1 lb (450 g) salt cod, previously desalted
- 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
- 1 medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced, reserve the tops for the poaching stock
- 4 Tbsp olive oil, divided
- 14 oz (400 g) fettuccine or tagliatelle
- 4 oz (115 g) Parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve
- 4 Tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preparation
Poach the cod. Put enough water in a saucepan to cover the salt cod, add the poaching ingredients, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the cod. Poach for about 20 minutes, or until the fish starts to flake. Lift the fish out with a slotted spoon and set aside on a plate. Reserve 2 cups (475 ml) of the poaching liquid. Discard the vegetables. Once cool enough to handle, flake the cod into large pieces, checking for any hidden bones.
Cook the vegetables. While the cod simmers, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and fennel and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent. Season with freshly ground black pepper. Set aside and keep it warm.
Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the fettuccine according to package directions or until al dente. Drain and add the pasta to the pan with the onion and fennel.
Bring it together. Add the flaked cod, Parmesan, and parsley to the pan. Stir gently to combine. Add the reserved cod poaching water a little at a time, tossing as you go, until you have a loose, creamy sauce. Warm it up gently and adjust seasoning. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and serve with extra Parmesan on the side.
Notes
Salt cod (baccalà): Dry-salting is one of the oldest methods of fish preservation, and baccalà appears across Mediterranean and Atlantic cuisines—as bacalhau in Portugal, bacalao in Spain, morue salée in southern France, and baccalà or stoccafisso in Italy.
Desalting: Soak the cod for at least 24 hours, preferably 48, changing the water 2–3 times a day. Thickness and dryness of the piece affect how long it needs. To test, poach a small piece for 10 minutes, let it cool, and taste: it should be mildly saline, not sharp. Note that pan-frying or roasting concentrates residual salt, so err on the side of under-soaking slightly if you plan to use those methods.
Poaching liquid: Don’t skip saving the poaching water—it adds depth and body to the sauce in place of plain pasta water.
Pasta shape: Fettuccine and tagliatelle both work well. The long, flat strands hold the flaked fish and creamy sauce better than shorter shapes.
