A traditional salt cod recipe from Northern Portugal, Bacalhau a Moda do Minho. Each family has its own recipe passed down for generations, but they all share a common denominator: potatoes. This recipe comes from a 1930s Portuguese cookbook, where a group of notable gentlemen from Lisboa gathered monthly to cook dinner.
Serves: 4 | Time: 1 hr 10 min (plus 48 hours to desalt the fish)
Ingredients:
- 2 lbs (900 g) salt cod, desalted
- 4–5 black peppercorns
- 1 bay leaf
- Freshly ground pepper, to taste
- 1 tsp Spanish smoked paprika, or to taste
- 2 lbs (900 g) Yukon gold potatoes, thinly sliced (preferably with a mandolin)
- 4 cups (560 g) onions, thinly sliced
- 6 garlic cloves, finely minced
- 2 Tbsp olive oil, plus more for frying and drizzling
- 1/4 cup cilantro (coriander leaves) or flat-leaf parsley, finely minced
Preparation:
Desalt the cod. Soak the salt cod in cold water for 48 hours, changing the water 3 times a day. The soaking time depends on the thickness of the bacalhau. Before preparing the dish, do a test run: Add a small piece of bacalhau to barely simmering water and cook for 10 minutes. Remove to a plate and let it it cool. Taste. It should be mildly saline. Keep in mind that pan frying or roasting bacalhau can concentrate residual salt and render a saltier taste to the finished dish.
Cook the cod. Place desalted codfish pieces in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add the bay leaf and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the fish begins to flake. Let it cool in the water for 5–10 minutes. Remove any skin and check for bones. Shred the flesh roughly into a bowl and season with freshly ground pepper and smoked paprika. Taste for salt. Set aside.
Caramelize the onions. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely golden and slightly caramelized, about 10–15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Taste for seasoning and set aside.
Fry the potatoes. Pat the potato slices dry with paper towels. In a large skillet, heat enough olive oil to shallow-fry over medium-high heat. Fry the potato slices in batches until the edges begin to brown and both sides are golden and crisp. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. Keep warm while you fry the remaining potato slices.
Assemble and bake.Preheat the oven at 350F/180 C. Lightly oil a baking dish. Arrange a layer of fried potato slices on the bottom. Top with the shredded seasoned cod, then a layer of potato slices and caramelized onions. Arrange remaining potatoes evenly on top. Bake for 25–30 minutes.
Serve. Just before serving, sprinkle with fresh cilantro or parsley and drizzle with a little extra olive oil if you like. Salad greens make a nice accompaniment.
Notes:
Desalting bacalhau: There is no shortcut. Two days minimum. Very thick cuts may need longer. Supermarkets in Portugal often sell “bacalhau “demolhado”- already soaked and desalted — which is a convenient option if you can find it.
Smoked paprika: Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón ahumado). Use sweet smoked rather than hot unless you want some heat.
Potato variety: Yukon gold potatoes hold their shape well after frying and have a buttery flavor that works nicely here. Any waxy potatoes are a good alternative. Floury ones will fall apart. If possible use a mandolin to slice the potatoes in thin, even slices. It is important for a even frying.
Cilantro vs. parsley: Both work. Cilantro is the more traditional choice in Portuguese cooking, flat-leaf parsley is an acceptable substitution.
