Salt Cod and Potato Bake
A traditional salt cod recipe from Northern Portugal, Bacalhau a Moda do Minho. Each family has its own recipe passed down for generations, but they all share a common denominator: potatoes. This recipe comes from a 1930s Portuguese cookbook, where a group of notable gentlemen from Lisboa gathered monthly to cook dinner.
Ingredients
- 2 lbs (900 g) salt cod, desalted
- 4–5 black peppercorns
- 1 bay leaf
- Freshly ground pepper, to taste
- 1 tsp Spanish smoked paprika, or to taste
- 2 lbs (900 g) Yukon gold potatoes, thinly sliced (preferably with a mandolin)
- 4 cups (560 g) onions, thinly sliced
- 6 garlic cloves, finely minced
- 2 Tbsp olive oil, plus more for frying and drizzling
- 1/4 cup cilantro (coriander leaves) or flat-leaf parsley, finely minced
Preparation
Desalt the cod. Soak the salt cod in cold water for 48 hours, changing the water 3 times a day. The soaking time depends on the thickness of the bacalhau. Before preparing the dish, do a test run: Add a small piece of bacalhau to barely simmering water and cook for 10 minutes. Remove to a plate and let it it cool. Taste. It should be mildly saline. Keep in mind that pan frying or roasting bacalhau can concentrate residual salt and render a saltier taste to the finished dish.
Cook the cod. Place desalted codfish pieces in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add the bay leaf and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the fish begins to flake. Let it cool in the water for 5–10 minutes. Remove any skin and check for bones. Shred the flesh roughly into a bowl and season with freshly ground pepper and smoked paprika. Taste for salt. Set aside.
Caramelize the onions. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely golden and slightly caramelized, about 10–15 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Taste for seasoning and set aside.
Fry the potatoes. Pat the potato slices dry with paper towels. In a large skillet, heat enough olive oil to shallow-fry over medium-high heat. Fry the potato slices in batches until the edges begin to brown and both sides are golden and crisp. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. Keep warm while you fry the remaining potato slices.
Assemble and bake.Preheat the oven at 350F/180 C. Lightly oil a baking dish. Arrange a layer of fried potato slices on the bottom. Top with the shredded seasoned cod, then a layer of potato slices and caramelized onions. Arrange remaining potatoes evenly on top. Bake for 25–30 minutes.
Serve. Just before serving, sprinkle with fresh cilantro or parsley and drizzle with a little extra olive oil if you like. Salad greens make a nice accompaniment.
Notes
Desalting bacalhau. Desalting is absolutely necessary. How long you soak depends on the thickness of the cut and how dry it is. At minimum, soak for 24 hours — 48 hours is better — changing the water 2–3 times a day.
Supermarkets in Portugal often sell bacalhau demolhado (already soaked and desalted), though it’s worth doing a test run first: simmer a small piece in barely simmering water for 10 minutes, let it cool, and taste. It should be mildly saline. Keep in mind that pan-frying or roasting can concentrate any residual salt and make the finished dish saltier than expected.
Smoked paprika: Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón ahumado). Use sweet smoked rather than hot unless you want some heat.
Potato variety: Yukon gold potatoes hold their shape well after frying and have a buttery flavor that works nicely here. Any waxy potatoes are a good alternative.
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